Olympic Fashion over the Years -- and the Designers who contributed
The Tokyo Olympic Games began on Friday, and though they're really about sports, they're also a little bit about fashion.
In just two weeks, the Games provides a huge brand-building opportunity. For fashion brands and designers, outfitting Olympic teams can be a game-changing event.
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The Games' long fashion history began with the first modern International Summer Olympics in Athens, Greece, in 1896. The business-inspired attire, a single button blazer and tailored pants for women and men didn't receive much comment from the crowds.
All of that would change when American fashion gave the team's uniform an overhaul. The headline of "Fashion Industry Provides Wardrobes to Olympic Teams" was published in WWD ahead of the 1956 Winter Olympics. It featured the introduction of a complete spectator-travel package by notable American businesses and designers. This opened the way for what has become the most popular portion of the Games: the Parade of Nations.
WWD stated at the time that the uniform "given the American team an advantage in the competition."
A package for a female competitor included a wool jersey jacket for travel and parade by Bonnie Cashin; a uniform for March and mendl featuring the Olympic patch made by suit maker Handmacher Vogel Inc. and red leather pumps by Town and Country. An undergarments package was also included with contributions from Berkshire Knitting Mills. For male athletes, a jacket and shorts were provided by Pendleton Woolen Mills. Esquire Inc. Nite-Kraft supplied Socks also provided tailored pajamas, which did not compromise any aspect of the athletes' time at Games.
Credit: Bonnie Cashin Archive
Bonnie Cashin Archive
Modern uniform packages supported the American and European fashion industry and provided design firms with an excellent licensing opportunity. As a result, fashion has been a major component of the Games' visual elements.
WWD profiles some of the designers that have dressed Olympic athletes throughout the years.
Credit: Fairchild Archive/Penske Media
Fairchild Archive/Penske Media
American designer Roy Halston rose to international fame following the Battle of Versailles in 1973. He outfitted the U.S. Olympic athletes for the Pan-American Games of 1976 and then licensed his name for both the 1976 Innsbruck Winter Games and the Montreal Summer Games. Halston promoted his Olympic collection via a televised fashion show. The package also included luggage, on-trend flared-legged trousers, and the first leisure ensemble. He explained to WWD that the leisure outfit would bring together the hamburger stand workers and invite them to join him at a black-tie party. Ever inventive, Halston turned products for athletes only into retail sales by removing the Olympic insignia on the same collection and selling it at Montgomery Ward's department stores. This move helped increase brand visibility and offered consumers the opportunity to take part in the Games.
American companies remained the leaders in the Olympic fashion parade, even when casual activewear was introduced, and denim became the mainstay of the event's podium in 1980.
Credit: DNR
DNR
In 1979, Levi Strauss & Co. became the official outfitter of Team USA. Unfortunately, America's boycott of the 1980 Summer Games in Moscow resulted at the end of the brand's second contribution. This was an opportunity missed by participants and the general public. Levi's 1984 Summer and Winter Olympics return helped to launch an active sportswear brand and offered universal clothing options, including T-shirts and jeans with Levi's logo.
Adidas, then the official outfitter of the U.S. Olympic team, offered more than 30 pieces of clothing to athletes in 1988. In addition, all participants received a modified version of the brand's sweatsuit.
The Opening Ceremony spectacle attracted much attention from the public, which brought ready-to-wear companies back to the Games in 1990.
Reebok and J.C. Penney were pioneers in the licensing boom. Henry Grethel, a New York designer, was hired by Penney to design the uniform for the 1992 Barcelona Summer Games opening ceremony. Grethel was the first mainstream designer to take on the role. Grethel's choice to wear a fuchsia blazer with a cornflower blue and fuchsia-patterned skirt was a departure from the norm and was contracted only for the Games. The designer told WWD that the upside to his design was name recognition. This was months before the Olympics.
Reebok was also on the official list of outfitters for the 1992 Summer and Winter Games. They designed a 24-piece collection with new material advances for the athletes. Reebok's water-repellent nylon sweatshirt was made of taffeta and was worn by the gold medal ceremony participants. According to a WWD interview with U.S Olympic Committee, there were limited-edition contributions by Cooper Sportswear, Newark, N.J., Bausch & Lomb, and Seiko Corp.
That same year, Polo Ralph Lauren debuted at Calgary's Winter Olympics. The company chose to not run a huge advertising campaign, but the outfit provided to the U.S. Olympic team for the opening and close ceremonies was unmistakable. It included blue jeans in a ranch-style and a jacket with denim and T-shirts featuring the American flag and Olympic rings. In 2008, Ralph Lauren's all-American style made his brand the official outfitter for the U.S. Olympic teams. The American fashion industry's participation at the Games continues to be marked by his unveiling of Team USA.
Atlanta Games was a highly anticipated event for the 1996 Summer Olympics. Reebok and other brands were able to drive sponsorship. Popular athletes such as Florence "Flo Jo" Griffith Joyner, Michael Jordan, who promoted Hanesbrands and gymnast Nadia Comaneci, representing Swatch, were brought to the forefront when a pipe bomb attack at Atlanta's Centennial Park killed one person and injured more than 100. The Olympic Committee changed the emphasis from safety to celebration.
The importance of fashion at the Opening Ceremony was temporarily diminished, but it would thrive in the four years to come. Roots, a Toronto-based outfitter for Team USA, was the one to make the blue beret, which became the most sought after item at the Games in 2002. The brand updated the beret in 2004 to match a range of high-performance, retro-inspired skiwear styles. Target was the first to sell the official U.S. Olympic outfit. Nike was on the field for the 2004 Games, replacing Adidas in providing the outfits for the medal ceremonies and loungewear for those who want to relax in the Olympic Village.
Fashion is not afraid to use a marketing opportunity. Giorgio Armani's Olympics debut in 2006 was international recognition of the industry's contribution to the Games. Armani gave Turin Winter Games' opening ceremonies a fashion edge. The opening ceremonies of the Turin Winter Games were made more fashionable by Carla Bruni, a Turin-born model who was wearing Armani Prive and holding the flag. She also walked alongside Sophia Loren, holding the Olympic flag. Armani was the official outfitter of the Italian Paralympic and Olympic teams in London in 2012. He took the opportunity to expand his performance wear collection EA7 Emporio Armani for the 2018 Winter Games.
Credit: WWD
Armani, the official outfitter for the Italian Olympic team at Tokyo Games, will again dress athletes for this ceremony. The tracksuit is made from recycled tricot polyester, and the jacket features the opening verse of Italy's National Anthem. These items can also be purchased in Emporio Armani shops, multibrand stores, and online.
"After the tremendous satisfaction that our athletes recently gave us, I will be watching the Olympics with great interest. Giorgio Armani released a statement revealing the look, saying that he was delighted by this renewed collaboration.
Outfitting teams at the Games continue to be influenced by international brands and designers. This list grew when Yohji Yamamoto, Y-3, teamed up with Adidas, provided clothing for the entire U.K team at the 2008 Summer Games. Stella McCartney's 2012 Olympic collection was again in the spotlight. Adidas outfitted the British Paralympic and Olympic teams. Stella McCartney also designed a popular collection inspired by runway trends that were available to the public.
Rio de Janeiro 2016 Summer Olympics saw fashion fever. Christian Louboutin's distinctive red soles inspired the uniforms of the Cuban Olympic delegation. Lacoste merged French heritage and materials with technology to create the French team, while H&M outfits were available for the Swedish team.
Credit: Fencer Daryl Homer in Ralph Lauren's Olympic uniform.
Joel Griffith
For the Tokyo Olympic Games starting Friday, Ralph Lauren will outfit athletes with cooling jackets designed to counter the temperatures that could make this the hottest Olympics on record. In addition, Kim Kardashian's Skims brand will make the underwear for Team USA. On the international scene, Telfar Clemens will be sponsoring and designing the uniforms for Team Liberia. At the same time, Uniqlo will supply the uniforms for the Swedish Olympic and Paralympic teams, the first time the Japanese brand has ever outfitted a national team. Although some years are more visually appealing than others, and the opening ceremonies this year will not be attended by fans, there is still much anticipation surrounding the virtual fashion show of national pride.